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British Isles Study Program Travelogue: Saturday, Aug. 27, 2005

Emily
Philosophy Major

DURHAM = CASTLE,or at least that's what first comes to my mind when thinking about the third city where BISP '05 made camp - or keep, I should say.  Allow me to explain: in Durham we lodged in the keep (the big circular tower part) of Durham Castle.  Being prominently positioned atop a hill (as our backpacked backs and traveled feet duly noted), Durham Castle is one of the city's key features, so much so that no address is necessary.  I found this out when a kindly librarian replied to my question about the castle's address with a light-hearted chuckle and said, 'I think we can find the castle.'

The same can be said of Durham's other main attraction, its Cathedral.  Only a stone's throw away from the Castle, the Cathedral is also picturesquely perched above the city.  The hill on which both the Castle and the Cathedral sit is nestled on a peninsula created by the River Wear.

It was while walking along the river one evening that we experienced our first full-fledged British rain.  Personally, it tore me away from a wonderful dark green and grey scene and drove me reluctantly into the Castle.  My reluctance soon disappeared, however, and gave way to another equation I discovered in Durham: CASTLE = EXPLORATION.

I don't know if you've ever had the opportunity to stay in a Norman castle and been driven to explore, but it is an experience I will never forget.  You must understand that I was no kid in a candy shop, unwrapping sweets and goodies of this world.  No, I was a Lucy stepping through a wardrobe into a magical world. Crooked and leaning grand staircases, rickety and squeaky floorboards, long and glowing corridors, and (best of all) an airy spiral staircase leading to a world atop the Durham Castle.  It was one of the most amazing experiences of my entire life.

Being now a veteran castle explorer, I feel I should offer advice to any of those considering their own adventures:

  • Explore barefoot - your feet become eyes through the footsteps of the past,
  • Explore at night in the rain - on a cloudy, drizzling night the purple-orange clouds in the sky dissolve into a horizon of twinkling city lights, and most importantly,
  • Share with friends - they become your fellow explorers and appreciators of awe and wonder.

On a final note, I ought to share briefly about the group's experience at Hadrian's Wall, to which we day-tripped from Durham.  Hadrian's Wall was built by the Romans in 122 AD as a barrier to keep out the scary northerners in what is now basically Scotland.  We hiked along the wall for a few miles, stopping at the 'Robin Hood Tree' (featured in the film 'Robin Hood and the Prince of Thieves') for a picnic lunch and a penny whistle serenade thanks to the 'Venerable Beeb.'  The weather was perfect all day, clear skies all day until a glorious flash rainstorm at the very end of our hike (we were soaked within seconds, it was wonderful!). Reflecting upon our experience, I find it interesting that the wall was meant to divide and separate yet brought us together as a group and united us to the past.

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